Saturday, December 31, 2016

Khoudia Diop - Cancel Your Previous Plans — THIS Is How You Own New Year's Eve

Take a minute to scan your memory of the most iconic party images you've ever seen. Maybe you think of Grace Jones in living color at Studio 54. Perhaps Bianca Jagger, almost always in sequins on a night out. Or Daisy, shimmying at Gatsby's opulent, sparkling affair. And who can forget '90s-era Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss? Those silver dresses, that metallic makeup. There's a reason these moments stand out — and it's no coincidence that they don't involve cotton dresses, matte brown eyeshadow, and nude lips.

Gold Member
Let's get this out of the way first: There will be no drinking in this lip, unless it's out of a straw. No eating unless it's M&Ms, placed very delicately on the tongue. And definitely no making out unless your S.O. is a very, very good sport.

That being said, if all that's on your agenda is dancing and looking ridiculously cool in pictures, here's what you need to know.

Caitlin started by filling in Khoudia's lips with MAC Lip Pencil in Chestnut to sharpen the borders. Then, she used a lip brush to paint on a coat of gold cream. You could stop there and still look standout, but to get the true, I-just-kissed-a-gold-bar effect, you need to take it farther, so Caitlin blended metallic powder with mixing liquid ("the consistency should be like honey," she says) and grabbed a thin, pointed paint brush, which allowed her to sweep it on with more precision.

Pat McGrath Labs Metamorphosis 005 Kit in Gold, $60, available at Sephora; Make Up For Ever Metal Powder in 1, $23, available at Sephora; Mehron Mixing Liquid, $10.50, available at Mehron.

Lizzie Fortunato Link Earrings In Gold, $195, available at Lizzie Fortunato; Magdalena Frackowiak Wire Choker, $1,531, available at Magdalena Frackowiak.
With a mouth like this, no one will be paying attention to your blush or mascara, so you might as well save yourself the effort. Just even out your skin tone with a dewy-finish foundation, then tap a highlighter
or clear gloss (Zendaya uses Aquaphor for this purpose) from your cheekbone to your brow bone in a crescent shape.

Now smile with the satisfaction of knowing that you're the most badass reveler at the party.

Burnished Metal
Orange eyeshadow typically calls for some planning, but when it's this metallic? Anything goes, and it all looks good.

Caitlin chose pigments that toe the line between copper and rose gold and opted to play things less traditionally with imperfect brushstrokes that only seemed haphazard. "Even asymmetry like this requires balance," she says. "You'll just know it when you find it."

Mehron Metallic Powder in Copper, $10.50, available at Mehron; Make Up For Ever Starlit Powder in 12 on the cheeks, $21, available at Sephora; MAC Liptensity Lipstick in Double Fudge, $21, available at MAC Cosmetics.

Mateo Circular Disk Installation Earrings, $850, available at Mateo; Alix Cornelia Body, $230, available at Alix.

For all the looks, Caitlin's secret weapon was some form of mixing medium — be it a heavy balm, gloss, or liquid. (The pro product lets you take your powders to new levels.) Here, she stirred up Mehron Mixing Liquid with loose copper pigment, then used a small, pointed paint brush to draw the strokes across the lids. One eye got more of a jagged, winged rainbow shape across the crease; the other, a focus on separated strokes in the center of the lid.

"I like using paint brushes for eyeshadow strokes because they're less dense than makeup brushes. When you wet them, you can do more of a stroke," says Caitlin. "Fan brushes are also great for wet looks, but for dry shadows that require blending, you want a traditional makeup brush."

Liquid Leather
Think of this eye look as the makeup equivalent of Catwoman's latex suit. In other words: sex, sex, sex. 

Instead of sticking with the mixing liquid she'd been using up until this point, Caitlin blended black pigment with Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream which is tackier and less likely to drip. (A big no-no when putting things near your eyes.)

MAC Pigment in Black Black, $22, available at MAC Cosmetics; ; MAC Clear Gloss, $22, available at MAC Cosmetics; Martha Stewart Glitter in Hematite, $19.96, available at Walmart.

Efva Attling Shape of a Dream Ear, $210, available at Efva Attling.

What makes this shadow shape seem so much cooler than a traditional cat-eye? The subtle detail of the pointed inner corner. Winging both ends "is a little more original and unique, and it elongates the eyes, which makes them look bigger," says Caitlin.

After getting the shape down perfectly, the makeup artist dabbed a clear gloss on top of the shiny black pigment for "that extra wet, extra gooey look." Skip this step if you plan on sweating heavily.

To go out with a bang, Caitlin filled in Khoudia's lips with black eyeliner pencil until they were completely opaque. "You don't want any natural lip color peeking through for this," she says. Then, she dabbed lip-safe glue from Pat McGrath's kit on the lower lip only
before dipping a brush into gunmetal glitter and tapping that on top.

Fine, sparkly flecks predictably flew, but Caitlin cleaned them off the rest of Khoudia's face in seconds by pressing a piece of tape down over them to pick them up without messing up any of the look.

Deborah Lippmann Nail Color in Dream Weaver, $18, available at Deborah Lippmann.

Silver Lining
"All chrome everything! Nails! Jewelry! Eyes! Lips!" was the initial rallying cry for this look, but after trying out chrome lips on Khoudia (and being met with a look that's probably better suited for 2050), we amended it to "chrome in smaller doses" — and the second time was a charm.

The eyes and nails got the full saturation treatment, while the lips sparkled in clear gloss mixed with a light sprinkling of silver glitter.

MAC Pigment in Platinum Pigment, $22, available at MAC Cosmetics; MAC Glitter in Silver, $22, available at MAC Cosmetics;
Essie Nail Polish in No Place Like Chrome, $9, available at Essie.

Leigh Miller Necklace; The Row Schoolboy Stretch Wool-Blend Blazer, $1,325, available at Net-A-Porter.

Futuristic makeup that doesn't scream sci-fi — we can't think of a better way to welcome 2017.

Helmut Lang Tie-Side Frayed twill Top, $320, available at Net-A-Porter.

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